The Patek Philippe 5990 is a luxurious and practical addition to Patek’s famous Nautilus collection. Released in 2014, this timepiece was created as the successor to the watchmaker’s Nautilus Chronograph Ref 5980. Patek has produced three variants of this timepiece so far, including a stainless steel model and a newer full gold version. 

The Patek Philippe 5990 is one of the most complex timepieces in the Nautilus collection. It features three main complications, including a chronograph, a traditional date function, and a dual time zone complication. 

These extra features make the watch a practical accessory with real-world utility in addition to being a stylish and luxurious timepiece. These attributes also make the Nautilus 5990 highly desirable, especially for collectors who are in the market to buy a complicated Patek Philippe watch. 

History of the Patek Philippe 5990

At the prestigious Baselworld event in 2014, Patek Philippe announced the release of its latest creation for the Nautilus collection. The Nautilus Ref 5990 was unveiled as the direct successor to the equally famous Nautilus 5980. The chronograph timepiece had been discontinued just a few months earlier after about 8 years in active production. The older watch was initially released in 2006 to commemorate the 30th anniversary of the Nautilus collection. 

Like its predecessor, the newly released Nautilus 5990 featured a chronograph functionality. This was a common feature in many sports watches from Patek and other watchmakers. However, it also came with a few extra features, including a double timezone display that made it capable of tracking the time in a second time zone simultaneously with a home time. 

This impressive stainless steel timepiece stole the show at the Baselworld event mainly due to its complications. At the time, it became one of the most complicated timepieces in the Nautilus collection. It has subsequently been bested by the Nautilus Perpetual Calendar ref. 5740G, which was released in 2018. 

By adding a dual time zone function to the Patek 5990, the watchmaker introduced something fresh and exciting to the over four-decades-old Nautilus collection while still honoring its roots as a valuable piece for active watch lovers. The Patek Philippe 5990 and other complicated timepieces in the Nautilus collection represent the absolute peak of luxury horology. The Ref 5990 in particular is an impressive extension of the Nautilus collection, created specifically to cater to active individuals with a globally mobile lifestyle. 

Patek Philippe 5990 Variants 

There are very few variations available for the Patek Philippe 5990. In fact, for many years after this collection was unveiled, it was only available as a single reference - a stainless steel watch with a black gradient dial. This changed a few years down the line when Patek unveiled a second stainless steel variant with a different dial, followed by a rose gold version. Here’s an overview of the three main options available for anyone looking to get their hands on this Nautilus timepiece. 

• Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5990/1A-001: This is the original version of the Patek 5990 released in 2014. As mentioned above, the Patek Philippe 5990/1A-001 was a stainless steel watch with a matching steel bracelet. The dial is a simple black color. Patek discontinued this variant of the Ref 5990 in 2022.  

• Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5990/1A-011: This model is practically identical to the discontinued 5990/1A-001. The only difference is the color and finish of their dial. The Patek Philippe 5990/1A-011 timepiece has a sunburst blue-gray dial that grades slightly towards the rim instead of the black dial of its predecessor. 

• Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5990/1R-001:  At the Watches & Wonder event in 2021, Patek Philippe announced the release of a rose gold variant of the Nautilus 5990. The Patek Philippe 5990/1R has the same design as the earlier variants, but has a full rose gold casing and bracelet combined with a blue sunburst dial. 

Patek Philippe 5990 Features 

The Patek Philippe 5990 doesn’t look remarkably different from many of its contemporaries. In fact, this watch shares several similarities with other Nautilus watches, particularly the Patek Philippe 5980, which is its direct predecessor. However, it also has some notable distinct features, including extra complications and subtle differences in case dimensions. Here’s an overview of some of the core features of this timepiece.

Casing materials and finishing 

The Patek Philippe Nautilus 5990 is an elegant timepiece with a luxurious casing. As mentioned above, this watch is available in two case options (stainless steel or luxurious rose gold). The rose gold variant is perfect for users who prefer a more sophisticated timepiece, while the stainless steel has a sportier appearance. Either option has its exterior expertly finished with alternating satin-brushed and polished patterns on the case and octagonal bezel.

Case Dimensions 

All variants of the Patek Philippe 5990 have a case diameter of 40.5mm. This case size is comparatively bigger than some of the older Nautilus models. The case is also slightly thicker, measuring 12.5mm on average (just 0.3mm thicker than the Nautilus 5980). While this watch looks and feels bigger than its contemporaries, it is still considered quite sleek for a model with three complications. Patek was able to achieve this elegant silhouette by using a relatively thin movement. The movement that powers this timepiece (the Caliber CH 28-520 C FUS) is just 7mm thick despite having so many components. 

The design of the case is another major reason for its sleek profile. For instance, the pushers meant to control the dual time zone function of this watch blend in perfectly. Instead of jutting at the sides, the pushers are in the same position as the familiar Nautilus bump and are barely distinguishable from the rest of the case. This helps the watch maintain a relatively sleek appearance with great wearability. 

Complications 

One of the significant features of the Nautilus 5990 is its practical complications. This watch is one of the most complex timepieces in Patek’s Nautilus collection, with up to three useful complications. 

• Dual-time zone function: This is particularly useful for people who need to keep track of time in two locations simultaneously. This timepiece has two hour hands, which are superimposed when the dual time-zone function isn’t in use. To engage the second time zone, the solid hour hand can be adjusted independently using the pushers on the left side of the case. 

• Chronograph: This is a stop-timer for tracking elapsed time. However, its design as a flyback chronograph makes it possible to instantly reset the chronograph function smoothly and effortlessly. The chronograph is displayed in a large subdial at the six o’clock position. 

• Date display: The third complication in this timepiece is the date function. This is elegantly displayed in a sub-dial located at the 12 o’clock position. The date is synced with the local time to avoid any confusion with the travel time. All of these features have been cleverly arranged to keep the dial neat and uncluttered. 

In addition to these three main complications, the Patek 5990 also has day and night indicators for each of the time zones. They’re located just below the central axis of this watch, next to the nine and three o’clock hour markers. The indicators turn white during the day and blue at night. 

Dial And Display

With the Nautilus 5990, Patek has managed to maintain a clean dial layout for one of its more complex timepieces. The dial has a basic design, with horizontally embossed lines against a gradient sunburst finish. The dial color varies slightly for each of the three models of this watch. The original model had a dark dial that grades from gray at the center to black towards the case rims. The two newer variants have blue dials, with bright white lettering to promote legibility. 

The two subdials and other dial elements are also neatly integrated, so they don’t clutter the dial. Overall, the Patek 5990’s complex functionality does not seem to get in the way of its subtle, understated dial layout. 

Patek Philippe 5990 Price 

The Patek Philippe 5990 price is a relatively high price for non-collectors. But this isn’t surprising considering the fact that it is one of the most complex Nautilus models on the market. When it was still in active production, a brand new stainless steel Patek Philippe 5990 with a black dial was listed for about $60,000. However, since this watch is no longer in production, the only way to find this version of the Patek Philippe 5990 for sale is by buying in the secondary market, where quotes are typically above $100,000. 

The blue dial variant of this stainless steel watch is more recent and still in active production. Retail price for this version is about $68,0000, and it sells for over $120,000 in the secondary market. Expectedly, the luxurious rose gold variant is the most expensive. Even when purchased for authorized retailers, this watch costs as much as $106,452. Secondary market prices also exceed $240,000, which is just about right for a complicated Nautilus model crafted out of precious metals. 

Conclusion 

The Patek Philippe 5990 is priced significantly higher than the simpler Nautilus models. It’s a complex timepiece with up to three vital complications. Yet, the watch has managed to maintain a slim profile of 40.5mm and a refined dial layout. These unique combinations of features make the Nautilus 5990 a standout piece in Patek’s lineup and one of the best luxury sports watches to purchase if you can afford one.